Seed Starting: a Comparative Study on Cheap Indoor Methods

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Introduction: Seed Starting: a Comparative Study on Cheap Indoor Methods

About: I am a landscape designer and advocate for native plant-focused and sustainable landscaping, but in the past I have worked in costume production and clothing alteration. I taught myself to hand-tailor, draft p… More About gtrachel » In this instructable, I will offer instructions for making, and discuss the pros and cons of, 5 cheap methods of starting seeds indoors:

(1) Egg cartons
(2) Toilet paper tubes
(3) Milk cartons
(4) Yogurt cups
(5) Peat pots and coco fiber pots

The seeds that I start using these methods include peas (climbers, like other legumes), tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants (nightshades), corn, basil, thyme, parsley, and marigolds.  Since I live in an area where we can get snow into mid-May, it's important for me to have healthy, well-started seedlings by the time we're frost free so that my plants have enough time to mature and produce veggies.

Step 1: What You Need

Take a look at the various starters I've used and decide which ones best suit your needs.  In addition, you will need:

- seed starter mix: it's not that expensive, and superior to potting soil because it's fine and uniform.
- water: I never use plain tap water, because it's chlorinated.  At the very least, I run it through my Brita.  If you have distilled water, that's the best for watering plants.
- something to mix your dirt and water in (I used the bottom half of a gallon jug)
- a latex glove: optional, but dirt dries your skin out and I don't like that, so I wear a glove on my dirt hand.
- seeds.  I like heirloom seeds and buy them from Tomato Bob's website, where they have varieties on sale for twenty-five cents at times.  But the local hardware store or gardening store sells seeds too, and there ain't no shame in that.

That's it.  Do this outside on a mild day, or be prepared to clean up dirt inside.

Step 2: Egg Cartons

Pros: cool and convenient
Cons: too small
Best for: basil

While it's fun to use egg cartons as seed starters, they are at the bottom of my list for effective options.  Why?  Because the egg-shaped spaces are just too darn small.  However, if you want to give them a try, here's what I've learned.

First, cut the carton in half (separating the bottom from the top).

Prep your starter mix by mixing it with water in your vessel of choice.  It should be good and wet.  The texture and color visibly change as it absorbs water; you want it to be about as wet as it can be without having water sitting in the bottom of the bowl.

Fill the egg cups up as much as you can.  Put your seeds on top.  Add more mix.

Line the top of the carton with plastic (I use produce bags from the grocery store).  Put the top half into the bottom half.  This not only stabilizes the whole apparatus, since the cardboard egg carton gets awfully flexible when it's wet, but also keeps moisture in - that cardboard, if exposed to air, wicks moisture away like you wouldn't believe and sucks the life out of your seedlings in just a day.  The plastic lining is essential.

The second photo shows basil growing in pots and in an egg carton.  The potted basil was planted in those pots and is at least a month older than the sprouts.  I intend to keep it indoors in those pots.  But I also want basil to plant in my garden, and that's why I planted more in the egg carton - so I have plenty of sprouts to put in the ground with my tomatoes.  I had basil - notoriously easy to grow - sprout at 100% in the egg carton.  I also have bell peppers sprouting well, but in my third carton, with a mix of eggplant and sweet Italian peppers, I have about 30% no-shows.  I also suspect the size of the egg cavities limit the growth of my seedlings.

Step 3: Toilet Paper Tubes

Pros: compact and easy to transplant
Cons: molds easily
Best for: tomatoes

The toilet paper tube is a step up from the egg carton.  The first step here is to cut these babies in half, because the full length tube is pretty much guaranteed to develop nasty black mold on the bottom, where moisture collects and can't be reached by little baby plant roots.  Gross, and hungry mold risks overpowering and killing your seedlings.

Half-length tubes, however, work pretty well.  You can see in the photos how much cleaner they are than the tall ones.  You'll need a tray to arrange them in.  If you don't want to shell out five bucks for an alleged "seed starter tray," build something yourself - I used the bottom of a paper grocery bag, stabilized with a Netflix ad I got in the mail, and lined with a plastic grocery bag.

Prep your mix as for egg cartons.  Pack it firmly into the tube with the bottom opening blocked by something (like the table, or the bottom of the mix bowl).  Fill most of the way.  You can fill a little more loosely closer to the top.  Put your seeds on top.  Add more mix.  Arrange in your tray.

TP tubes are not good for anything with big, aggressive roots - like corn or peas.  Those roots will grow right out of the bottom and run rampant in your tray, and you will have to transplant within just a few days (see photo #4).  Tomatoes, however, have little bitty roots that don't stray from their mix, and they seem to like TP tubes quite a bit.  Of the tomatoes in my TP and 2" mini peat pot tray, I had a much better result from seeds planted in the TP tubes.

When you want to transplant from the TP tube into something bigger, here's my preferred method:
(1) Fill your desired vessel halfway with damp potting soil.
(2) Place the tube on top, then fill the space around the tube with soil.
(3) Remove the tube by pushing down gently on the seed mix around your seedling with one hand, and pulling up on the tube with the other.  Go slow.
(4) Add more soil after you've removed the tube.  Water.

I don't like to leave the tube in for two reasons: first, I don't want my plants to have to wait for it to decompose before they can stretch their roots out.  Second, there's usually at least a little bit of moldy fuzz starting to develop at the bottom of the tube, and I want that out of the picture.  It's not difficult to remove the tube.  Just be gentle.

Step 4: Milk Cartons

Pros: tomatoes' first choice award
Cons: no separation of seedlings
Best for: tomatoes

Okay, this was a half-assed thing that I tried, and I couldn't believe how well it worked.  I cut a milk carton in half (the long way), filled it about an inch with prepped mix, laid down my tomato seeds, and covered with more mix.

I had 100% germination and the seedlings from the milk carton were the biggest, fastest, best-developed tomatoes of all.  I thought they would be a nightmare to transplant because they were all growing together and I imagined a major root entanglement, but this was not the case.  The tomatoes came apart easily, I transplanted them into 3" and 4" coco fiber pots, and they are doing great.

I don't know why it works so well, but it does.  The second photo shows the milk carton tomatoes transplanted into pots, next to the TP tube and mini-peat tomatoes - they were all planted at the same time.

When you transplant tomatoes, cover the cotyledon leaves (the first leaves, the generic-looking ones) with soil.  I've heard it's good to cover them up to the second set of true leaves, but I transplanted mine before they were that big.  They'll grow roots from the covered part of the stem, and be sturdier plants.

Step 5: Yogurt Cups

Pros: easy, easy, easy
Cons: yogurt is more expensive than eggs or milk
Best for: pretty much everything

Yogurt cups make great seed starters.  They are a good size, they don't rot, and the soft plastic makes it easy to slide your babies out with their roots intact when it's time to transplant.  I love these things.  I don't even poke holes in the bottom (careful not to overwater!).  They hold moisture like pros and everything I've planted in yogurt cups has grown well.

I've put zucchini, peppers, parsley, and marigolds in them.  Procedure: prep mix, fill, plant, and cover.
The first picture shoes marigolds up top and bell peppers on the bottom.  The second photo also shows a huge zucchini sprout (which is only a few days old, while everything else is at least two weeks old) and some parsley as well.

Step 6: Peat and Coco Pots

Pros: roomy, no removal necessary for transplanting
Cons: $$
Best for: big seedlings - legumes, corn

Okay, these are the only starter pots that you actually have to purchase as such, but they are worth it in some cases.

This may seem obvious, but if you plant a big seed, you can expect a big seedling.  In that case, forget about egg cartons and TP tubes.  For huge seeds like peas, beans, corn, and zucchini, go straight to a 4" or 5" peat or coco pot.  Otherwise you'll have to transplant them right away, and a lot of these guys don't like that.  I had at least one healthy pea shoot die on me after transplanting to a larger pot.  So skip that and start big.

I've also used coco pots to step up my tomato seedlings, particularly the ones from the milk carton (second photo).  Everything that needs to be transplanted from its original starter pot will go into one of these, because they've only got another two weeks indoors before they start the transition to the outside.

I'm now planting my peas and corn together.  Why?  Because corn is tall and thin and likes lots of nitrogen, and peas climb and deposit nitrogen in the soil as they grow.  Beans do, as well (it's a legume family trait).  It's a match made in Native American farming techniques heaven.

Prep your mix.  I fill the bottom third or half of the pot with potting soil, and then put seed starter mix on top of that.  Put your seeds on top.  Big seeds tend to prefer to be buried deeper, an inch or so - refer to your packet.  Put mix on top.

A note: I can't recommend the 2" mini peat pots, because they were outperformed in sprouting tomato seedlings by both of the other container types I used with tomatoes.  I conclude that the large ones are useful for large seeds, but for small seeds, other options are preferable.

Step 7: Tips

Here are some things I've learned.

"Thinning" is a heartbreaking experience.  The first seeds I planted were herbs in a pot.  I planted lots of seeds and had to throw most of my seedlings out as they grew.  I now plant seeds individually, one per container (or a couple in a pot, spaced appropriately), and plan for them all to sprout.  If they don't, I can always plant a new seed.  But most seeds sprout.

Covering seedling trays with plastic is not something I do, because I don't have plastic wrap lying around.  I'm attentive to the soil moisture and haven't had any problems.  Seed starter mix holds water particularly well (one of the reasons it's worth buying), but do keep in mind that the smaller your container, the more often you'll need to water it.  The mix is also easily compacted by the impact of a stream of water.  I've found that the handiest way to water small containers without disturbing the soil is to make a SEEDLING WATERER as follows:

1 plastic water bottle with lid
something with which to poke a hole in the lid

Poke a hole in the lid.  Fill the bottle with water and put the lid on.  Squirt the water through the hole onto your seedling pot.  No soil disturbance!

I also don't keep my seeds in the dark before they've germinated.  I'm sure people who insist on doing that have a good reason to do so, but I try to keep things simple and so all my guys are on the same table by my south-facing window.  I figure they're under soil, so it's pretty dark down there, and they seem to be doing fine and germinating in the appropriate time frame.  I don't use grow lights - that would be way expensive - but I do turn my seedlings, sometimes more than once a day, and take them outside when the weather is good.

A note about parsley: parsley takes forever to germinate.  So long that, long after the other herbs I had planted the same day were sprouting their first and even second true leaves, I'd yet to see any action from the parsley.  I finally planted something else on top, but the very next day they sprouted, and they continued to sprout for a couple of weeks.  Some seeds just require a lot of patience, and it never hurts to look them up with Google to get some extra info - seed packets can be frustratingly brief.

Finally, keep track of your planting dates by writing them on your seedling pots (in ballpoint or something similar, which doesn't bleed on cardboard, and sharpie on yogurt cups).  You'll want this information for your own reference.  Also write down varieties, especially if you've got seedlings that look similar (all the nightshades look a like at first, and forget telling two kinds of tomatoes apart).  You can never have too much data.

I hope you've enjoyed my instructable and feel inspired to start your own seeds for cheap.  I'm entering the gardening contest, so if you liked it, please give me a good rating and vote for me.  Good luck!

A Quick Overview of Seed Starting

Starting seeds for your garden is one of the most exciting things you can do. To see something so small grow into a beautiful and productive part of your garden is magical. But for a lot of new gardeners, it can seem overwhelming to start. How exactly do you do it? How do you know what materials to use? How do you know when your seedlings are ready to be planted outside?

Well, Gardenary is here with plenty of answers and information all about starting seeds! Check out these articles:

• When to start seeds indoors
• What materials you'll need
• How to harden off and transplant your seedlings outdoors

In this post, we're going to take a deeper dive into the different seed starting setups, in particular the trays and kits. There are so many options to pick from, so let’s take a look at what all you can use!

What Should Your Seed Starting Setup Look Like?

When starting seeds indoors, just remember that you are trying to mimic the outdoors as much as possible. You'll want the temperature to be warm and the area to have perhaps a little humidity, if possible. There also needs to be some air flow and light. While some people choose to use natural light, your seedlings are going to grow weak and leggy unless they're in a greenhouse with full overhead sunlight. Being placed on a windowsill is often not enough. Your best bet is to grab a grow light to use in whatever location your seeds will grow.

I have been starting seeds indoors for years now, so I will show you an example of how I started versus how I'm doing it now: In the beginning, I used styrofoam cups placed on a baking tray, with a clip-on grow light, in my office. Super simple and cheap, but effective! I didn’t need to start a ton of seeds because my growing space was little, so this worked well enough.

As my garden expanded, I invested in more materials in order to start more and more seeds. Now I have an extra bedroom closet I use, with a shelving unit, attached grow lights, and seed trays. This setup was more labor intensive and expensive to get going, but I can start a lot more seeds this way, and by now, I know the investment is worth it.

What Materials Can You Use to Start Seeds?

While my personal preference is a seed starting tray, there are other things you can use to get going. Let's look at some of the advantages and disadvantages of different materials.

Seed Starting with Household Items

Many gardeners trying to reuse what is already in their home will start seeds in eggshells, egg cartons, rolled-up newspaper pots, yogurt cups, toilet paper rolls, and more.

Advantages

A lot of these materials are biodegradable, so the whole pot can be planted directly into the soil. That is definitely a benefit, as is the ability to repurpose something that would otherwise be tossed in the trash.

Disadvantages

I have tried a few of these items and either found them to be too small or had them decay and break down before I could plant my seedlings outdoors.

Seed Starting with Peat Pots or Coco Coir Discs

These are pre-made pots, trays, and discs (also called pellets) sold widely online and in stores.

Advantages

They're biodegradable, so again, you can plant the entire pot or disc.

Disadvantages

I've had some get moldy and—like what happened when I tried to use toilet paper rolls—break down too quickly when exposed to water. I am not a fan. Plus, you have to pay for something that's not reusable.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of cheap seed starting trays. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

Seed Starting with Plastic Cups, Styrofoam Cups, and Small Reusable Pots

You can poke holes in the bottom of just about any cup and use it to start your seeds. Be sure to place them on a surface or tray that can catch runoff when you water them (like my baking sheet in my original setup).

Advantage

The benefit of these is that they are bigger and thus can grow your seeds all the way to transplantation without needing to pot them up (in other words, you don't have to move them to a larger pot before they go into the garden).

Disadvantage

The negative is that they take up way more space than the cells of a typical seed starting tray.

Seed Starting with Soil Blocking

Another option that is gaining popularity is to use soil blocking. While this option has technically been around for centuries, many home gardeners have never seen it used. 

Advantage

The beauty of this option is that you use the soil as both the growing medium and the container. The soil is packed enough to stay together and allow the seed to grow roots without running out of space. 

Disadvantage

You do need a few particular items to get started.

I know many gardeners who are turning to this method and quite enjoy it. You can see the items you need here and read up on how to's.

My Favorite Seed Starting Trays

My top pick would have to be from Johnny’s Selected Seeds. Everyone knows their seed starting materials are top notch, and I love supporting a company that has such a great reputation and relationship with its employees. Their trays can be a bit on the pricier side, but you know that they will last for years. They have numerous options to choose from, so here are a few you might want to try:

• 72 Cell Plug Flat - This tray can be used for almost anything growing in your garden. These are the ones I currently use (pictured below).
• SureRoots 50 Cell Deep Plug Flat - This tray is great for anything with a longer taproot or something that may be disturbed during transplanting, such as sweet peas or perennial plants.
• 128 Cell Plug Flat - This tray will definitely give you plenty of spots for seeds in the space provided. This tray would work for things like greens and herbs that don’t need a ton of space.
• Pro-Tray 24 Cell Flat - This tray with larger spaces is better for your larger plants like tomatoes, eggplant, melons, pumpkins, and squash.

With any of these trays, make sure you also order trays to catch or hold water underneath if you're growing indoors, as these trays all have holes that allow for drainage or uptake of water.

Plenty of other companies have similar tray setups that are good quality. You can get a kit from Gardeners' Supply that includes a 12- or 24-cell tray and a mat, and Burpee has a similar setup that also includes a dome lid, markers, and grow pellets. Growers Supply carries similar products, but you have to order a certain number of trays, not just one. 

Amazon has a really neat kit that has a 60-cell tray with a mat and dome lid, as well as a grow light—a great setup for beginners! You can also find inexpensive trays and kits at places like Home Depot, as well as your local gardening supply stores.

A Couple of Quick Tips on Using Trays to Start Seeds

Tip #1

You can water at the top or the bottom. Many people get fungal disease, which affects seedling growth, by watering on top of the soil if it is kept too moist. This has never happened to me, but you want to be careful how much water you use. You can avoid this issue by pouring water into the bottom catch tray; the seedlings will absorb it up through the holes in the tray.

Tip #2

When it comes time to remove your seedlings, a butter knife is your best friend. Just insert it gently along the side of the soil and pop your seedling out.

Tip #3

Always be sure to wash and sterilize your tray kits before use for new seeds. The moment after I transplant my seedlings, I wash my trays out and remove any dirt or debris and let them dry out before storage. When it comes time to start new seeds, I soak my trays in a diluted bleach solution to kill off any lingering bacteria that could harm my new seed babies. You can use a 9:1 ratio of water to bleach, or 9 cups of water for every 1 cup of bleach.

Is a seed starting heat mat necessary? 

I personally do not use a heating mat and do just fine; however, I see plenty of gardeners and, for sure, farmers who use them and have excellent and speedier germination. I don’t feel this is necessary to get started if your space is warm, but it can definitely help.

There is also an option to purchase a dome. I have used domes at times and not used them at times, and in my opinion, they aren’t totally necessary if you have a warm space to start your seeds. If your space is a little cooler, like less than 72 degrees, then a dome can provide extra warmth and humidity for your seeds to germinate.

The company is the world’s best Leak-Proof Seedling Trays supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.