Is it good to use heater in car?

12 Apr.,2024

 



So I've been toying with the idea of finding a way to run electric heat to the car and have it on a timer so it starts automaticly a few hours before I leave.

I'd have to do a heat loss calculation but I'm guessing I'll probably want at least a 20 amp 240v receptacle and something like this:

Another option would be a 120v / 1500w oil filled heater which would be safer, but don't know if that would quite cut it.

They do sell heaters made for cars, so how are those normally installed? Guessing since they are such low wattage they can be safely set on the dash... but they don't really put out enough heat to melt ice.

Also any suggestions on how to run the power from outside to inside the car in a way that is easy to plug/unplug from outside? Is there a standard way to do this or does it really depend on the car model/how it's built? Car is a 98 Buick Lesabre. Idealy it would be nice to have the block heater on the same power cord but it will probably be easier to make this a separate cord especially if I get into the 240v range. I know my stuff when it comes to the actual electrical work, I just don't know my way around the internals of a car. Really I'm hoping I can get away with something in the 1800w range so I can use a basic, cheap 120v timer but somehow I doubt it.

I'm sure I'm not the first person to do this, but I can't seem to find anything online about someone who has done this safely.

I'm sick of frosted windows and 2 inches of ice on the car each morning, and I don't have an auto starter so I have to go outside ahead of time if I want to start the car, which normally does not happen as I don't really want to be going outside in -30 winds straight out of bed, I'm already cold enough and just want to get into the scalding hot shower. Also starting the car ahead is just a big waste of gas and creates lot of pollution, so this is also a "green" project if you will.So I've been toying with the idea of finding a way to run electric heat to the car and have it on a timer so it starts automaticly a few hours before I leave.I'd have to do a heat loss calculation but I'm guessing I'll probably want at least a 20 amp 240v receptacle and something like this: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...RD~0522604P/Mastercraft%2BGarage%2BHeater.jsp Another option would be a 120v / 1500w oil filled heater which would be safer, but don't know if that would quite cut it.They do sell heaters made for cars, so how are those normally installed? Guessing since they are such low wattage they can be safely set on the dash... but they don't really put out enough heat to melt ice.Also any suggestions on how to run the power from outside to inside the car in a way that is easy to plug/unplug from outside? Is there a standard way to do this or does it really depend on the car model/how it's built? Car is a 98 Buick Lesabre. Idealy it would be nice to have the block heater on the same power cord but it will probably be easier to make this a separate cord especially if I get into the 240v range. I know my stuff when it comes to the actual electrical work, I just don't know my way around the internals of a car. Really I'm hoping I can get away with something in the 1800w range so I can use a basic, cheap 120v timer but somehow I doubt it.I'm sure I'm not the first person to do this, but I can't seem to find anything online about someone who has done this safely.

It may seem counter-intuitive to run your mobile A/C when the weather’s cool, or even freezing,  however running the A/C in the winter not only does not do any harm to your heating/cooling system, it may in fact, offer benefits.

Simply put, running the A/C and heater will dehumidify and remove moisture from the air.

To explain further, the relative humidity is the percentage to the dew point for droplets to form. This point increases as temperatures rise. Therefore, the heater alone will heat the air, but to actually remove moisture, you have to cool the air below the dew point with the A/C.

If you only use the heater core, and not the A/C condenser also, the air will be hot, but likely moist, and it won’t defrost or defog the interior of the car. So the car must use the A/C condenser to first remove the moisture.  This will help to slow rust and other water damage (such as upholstery glue coming undone) and prevent fogging windows. Therefore, the AC should always be on in most cars (even in the winter).

Moisture,clima

Most cars are actually DESIGNED for the A/C and heater to run together.  When you run the A/C and heater simultaneously the A/C compressor is energized and the evaporator coil (under the dash) removes moisture from the air. The dry air is then routed and mixed with warm air and sent up to the dash top windshield and side window vents. As stated above, dry warm air is highly effective at quickly defogging the windshield and side windows—much more so than just heated air.

In addition, regularly running the compressor (or running it all the time) helps keep the compressor seals lubricated, and that is a very good thing.

The A/C button turns on the compressor, that is all it does. The compressor is now ready to come on if it is required to cool down the interior of the car.  In addition, every time you select the defrost button you are turning on the A/C. A/C button or not, the compressor is now ready   It’s interesting to note that this is the normal mode for most modern automotive climate controls when  the Defrost mode is engaged.  Most systems are designed so that running defrost runs the A/C compressor and blows the conditioned air at the windshield.

So, in closing, the A/C is not for cooling only.  It is an integral part of the Climate Control system and works in conjunction with the heater to control temperature and humidity, the “climate” of the vehicle cabin.

LMK 2020

Is it good to use heater in car?

C While the Heater is On? – FJC