If you're new to starting seeds indoors, the huge supply list and supposed 'rules' for good growing can be a little intimidating.
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Today I'm going to show you my best seed starting setup, my favorite tools and boil it down to the basics'the things you ABSOLUTELY need, the things that are NICE TO HAVE and things that everyone tells you need, but you don't really need for a cheap DIY seed starting setup.
Let's start with the obvious one. You need seeds. Sorry guys, can't get around this one!
If you've come this far in your gardening journey, you've graduated from buying plant starts of unknown varieties from unknown companies, and you want a little bit more control over your garden.
Buying seeds allows you to pick the flavor, color, disease resistance, and planting time, not to mention it saves A LOT of money.
I try to grow using organic seed as much as possible, so my favorite herb and vegetable seed companies are High Mowing Seeds, Territorial Seed, Johnny's Seeds, Botanical Interests and Stark Bro's for potato seeds, garlic seeds and sweet potato slips. You can always get seeds at your local garden supply center, home improvement store, or even Amazon or a dollar store.
Of course I have my favorite seeds (doesn't everyone?), but I am ALWAYS looking for new varieties to try. If you got an awesome one, let us all know about it in the comments, along with your zone or climate.
Speaking of seeds, Here's one thing you DON'T need. You do not need a fancy seed organizer for your seed packets. You don't even need ANY kind of organizer. You can throw all your seed packets in a drawer like I did starting out. That being said, something portable and categorized is a nice thing to have. There's a lot of options if you want to upgrade here.
Check out my seed organizer video where I go over all the ways, including mason seed jars, seed shoe boxes, seed binders, seed photo boxes, and a tutorial on how to make what I'm currently using, a customizable plastic lidded box with dividers.
Vegetable garden planners are something that never gets mentioned in seed starting supply lists and I think that's a real oversight. I know when I was first starting out, just the sheer amount of data was overwhelming. Gardening is a long-term project, so you really need SOME kind of plan.
It could be a sheet of paper or a notebook, with a simple list of varieties, locations and dates, or a sketch of your yard with the plants marked. There's some nice printable garden planners and garden journals out there.
You could go with a virtual garden planner. In the past, I've used Google calendar and task apps like Todoist for planning my garden tasks.
If you guys have seen my garden planning video you'll know I've since upgraded to a spreadsheet to plan my garden. (Let me go get my nerd glasses!) For me, that took the best of both worlds of the virtual and the paper. It was easily editable and sortable and I could link to websites like a digital planner, but I had the ability to track more custom plant data like harvest quantities, and transplant dates, like I would have had on paper.
If you are a fellow nerd, download this garden spreadsheet and customize it for your own garden.
So, you got your seeds and seed starting plan. Do you need a seed starting kit? No. You CAN make your own, BUT if this is your first year starting seeds, kits are a really great way to limit a lot of stress and guesswork. That's how I got my start. Jiffy and Burpee both make popular seed starting kits.
AND, not sure how long I'm going to do this, but for a limited time, I'm also offering the kit I use, a heavy duty metal seed germination kit for sale. It consists of a galvanized steel soil blocker and stainless steel trays, which I've had A LOT of people asking me about. They're zero-waste and completely indestructible. I put this system together myself and it's not sold anywhere, so I finally figured I'd offer it to you guys to see if there's some interest. I just cannot be the only person who is tired of disposable plastic in the garden!
Do you need seed pots? Technically no. One of the oldest ways to do winter sowing indoors is to plant seeds directly into wooden trays. Gardeners would sow in flats, just like they would in the garden and then simply transplant the seedlings when they grew old enough. If you're short on pots or you're doing microgreens, I definitely recommend giving this method a try.
That being said, I prefer separating my plants. They're quicker to transplant and there's less shock to the roots since you're not disturbing the soil to dig them up.
There are a million and one ways to separate your seedlings. You can go DIY with disposable seed starter cups, yogurt cups or start seeds in egg cartons.
Plastic plug trays come in different sizes'128-cell, 72-cell, and 50-cell'and fit industry standard trays. Silicone seed starting trays like those from Sili-Seedlings or Back Porch Pots are food-grade and flexible and usually come in cool colors. There are biodegradable seed starter pots like newspaper plant pots, paper pots, peat pots, Jiffy pots and Jiffy strips, and you can even start seeds in toilet paper rolls.
If you've seen my hori hori and soil blocker video, you'll know I love my soil blocker, probably the ultimate in eco-friendliness, because there is no container at all. The soil is the container. This tool is a one-time investment, and you don't have seed starter pots to store or sanitize. Not only is there hardly any transplant shock since the roots are air-pruned, but the seedlings are still separated. So, the eco-friendly and low-cost upside of being container-less without the root shock drawbacks of sowing in flats.
So, on this supply item, I would say no, you do not actually need seed starting pots, but having some way to separate, like a soil blocker or individual pots is nice.
If you got your seed pots or soil blocks, you'll notice one important thing about them'they leak. Now drainage holes are a good thing for the plant'you don't want root rot. This is NOT so good for your living room.
Unless you're starting seeds in a greenhouse or some other place where you don't care where the water goes, you DO need some sort of tray to catch all the water that's going to drain from the seedlings.
And in fact, I highly recommend bottom-watering seedlings, which is putting water in the bottom of the tray and allowing the plants to soak it up. This is where having a tray is indispensable.
Good news is that you can go with DIY seed trays here. You can use an old cookie sheet, baking pan, or bin.
A lot of farmers and gardeners use a plastic seed starter tray called a tray, which fits plug tray inserts. I've used these and I'm really not a fan. They're hard to clean, they're flimsy, they discolor, they crack, they can even melt or warp depending on how hot your climate or greenhouse is, and they add more plastic to the world.
If you want to stick around to my next post, I'm going to go super in-depth with the complete metal seed tray system I use which I LOVE.
It uses heavy-duty stainless steel restaurant trays that are zero-waste and recyclable.
So, seed starting mix. You DO need SOMETHING to put your seeds in. But this is one of those items that there is a lot of disagreement over between even experienced farmers and gardeners. Kind of like how you should make grilled cheese'with margarine, butter, oil, or mayonnaise.
Mayonnaise! Of course!
My advice would be to not overthink this. Seeds are not delicate beings here. A good seed starting soil has three features. It's sterile, meaning no fungus, bacteria or weed seeds. It's finely textured. And it holds water well. Because I try to keep my garden organic, I add a fourth one, that it's organic. Almost anything out of a bag can qualify for these.
Myself, I have always had great luck with making soil blocks and seeding in an organic potting mix I get from my local home improvement store. A lot of us already have potting mix in the house, so bam, you're done.
There are specialized soil mixes for seed starting if you'd like. Jiffy, Back to the Roots, and Espoma are popular brands.
High Mowing Seeds, where I buy most of my seeds, sells a compost they start all their seedlings in.
Two things I will tell you not to use is anything labeled 'soil' or 'topsoil''it's just too heavy, coarsely textured, and lacking in nutrients. And don't use anything from your garden or compost pile, since it won't be sterile.
Can you try to memorize what you planted? I guess' But I can tell you that I have tried to do this and I hated my life. Also it was very hard to track how my plants did when I didn't know for sure what variety I was harvesting or eating. So don't be like young Paduan April and PLEASE label your plants, someway, somehow.
Yes, you NEED some type of garden plant markers.
There's a lot of cheap DIY plant marker options out there like popsicle stick garden labels and stone plant markers. For a couple years, I made plastic plant tags out of old cut up mini-blinds which I wrote on using a Sharpie. You can cut up big yogurt containers the same way, too. If you want to get fancy, you can buy wooden plant labels, metal plant tags, copper, or even ceramic. And if you're using silicone seed starting pots, you can actually write on the side with a dry-erase marker.
I used to write the varieties on the side of my stainless steel seed trays with a washable crayon, but found that didn't actually wash off too well when it sat for months and months.So, I finally settled on a two-part system. On my trays, I put a piece of masking tape on the side and write the varieties in each row.
When I transplant them, I make a clear label with my labelmaker, put the crop, variety and seeding date, and then put that on a galvanized steel marker that I can reuse again and again every year. Amazingly, I have labels for perennials that have been in my garden for years and still look like the day I made them.
Admittedly these are a little fancy, but hey, we work hard on our gardens! We deserve a little bling! And I really love that they're not disposable and adding little plastic pieces to my compost.
If you guys what me to do a more in-depth post on how I make and clean my markers and use them garden planning, let me know in the comments.
Some seeds, like carrot and celery seeds, are so tiny, they come in a packet INSIDE the seed packet. And many can be the same color as your soil.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of Leak-Proof Seedling Trays. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
So here's another item you won't see mentioned in most seed starting supply lists'you need a very strong direct light to see your seeds while you're planting them.
If you're seeding outside on a sunny day that's fine, but I found my dining room light was just not bright enough.
I use a headlamp now if I'm seeding indoors and this makes it SO much easier.
Germination mats are thin heating pads you put under your seed starting trays to help germinate your seeds. They can be on the pricier side, especially if you want to outfit a lot of trays.
Seed starter mats are one thing that many say you need, but you really don't. Here's why. Almost every popular crop has a germination temperature that's in the range you would normally keep your indoor room temperature at. So if you're keeping your seed trays in your living room, AND you don't have a crazy spouse who likes to keep the house at subarctic temperatures, you're fine.
Seed heater mats become a nice thing to have when you're starting seeds in an unfinished area like me. My basement hovers between 60-65ºF which is too low for the summer crops like tomatoes, melons, and eggplants. So I have 6 heating mats to keep those seedlings happy.
If you have an older refrigerator, the tops of those are often warm, and they also make a good temporary spot to germinate heat-loving crops. Once they've sprouted you can put them with your other trays in a cooler area, though they won't grow as fast as they would with a mat.
If you'd like a printable guide of all the popular crops and their germination temperatures, along with seeding and transplanting dates, you can download one for free.
A watering can for your plants is another thing that's nice to have but you don't need it.
I use my Haws watering can for this task, but chances are you have something around the house already, like a milk jug, pitcher, or large measuring cup, that can transport and pour decent quantities of water.
You don't need a rose on your watering can if you're bottom watering, but they are nice to have to settle the soil around the seed when you initially plant.
Another tip' bring the water to the trays, not the other way around. You do not want to transport half-full trays of muddy water with fragile plants around your house. That is just a disaster waiting to happen, ON SO MANY LEVELS.
Speaking of watering, let's talk about the place where you'll be putting the trays. Many people use a seed starting shelf. I do. But you don't need one. As long as you have a way to position the grow light, you're fine.
You could buy grow lights with their own stands or do a DIY seedling shelf using the underside of a table or an old bookcase.
It is a nice thing to have, though, especially if you have a lot of trays like me.
If you do want to buy one, I'd recommend getting an inexpensive 48' wide wire utility rack with feet that can level. The wires make it super easy to hang the lights on, and adjustable feet will help keep the water in the trays evenly dispersed.
If you'd like a more in-depth post on how I set up my seed starting shelf and all its components, let me know in the comments and any questions you have.
You guys are probably not gonna want to hear this, windowsills are just not enough light. Grow lights are something you absolutely need for starting healthy seedlings. Good news is that you don't need fancy plant lights here.
On each level of my seed rack, I use two standard 48' wide LED shop lights that I got on Amazon.
If you spend a little more money, you can get the same style and size lights that have broader full spectrum light and are purpose-built as plant lights.
I do have some older fluorescent shop lights that I used as grow lights which didn't work for me and I would not recommend them. They used more energy, the bulbs discolored and made the plants leggy, and I had to replace the bulbs more often. I plan on upgrading those to full-spectrum LED grow lights soon.
You can have too much light on your seed starts, so don't be tempted to leave the grow light on permanently. Seedlings that get no sunlight need 16-18 hours of artificial light per day. BUT, that's exactly why I classify a timer for your grow lights as something nice to have, not a must-have like everyone else.
If, like most people, you get between 6 and 8 hours of sleep a night, you can simply incorporate turning on and off the plant lights into your morning and evening routines. If you're like me, you might already have habits like opening the blinds or adjusting a thermostat or brushing your teeth that you could habit stack the lights with.
That being said, I do use a timer.
My first timer I stole from my Christmas tree box. The second timer needs a rocket science degree to program. I am about to upgrade to a smart plug I've used in other places in my house, with the intention of integrating into a smart home system.
Ok, I'm gonna break the internet and say something outrageous'you do not need humidity domes! I rarely rarely use them.
Supposedly they increase seed germination rates, but my seeds germinate fine without them. My seeds are fresh and usually double-seed. For me, propagation domes seem to cause more problems than they're worth. They leak condensation all over my lights. They're not durable and break and discolor. They take up space. They're plastic (you know I love plastic!). If you're not careful they can cause mold growth and damping off.
They do do a good job of preserving heat, so I will use them sometimes for faster germination on my heat-loving seeds, but even then you have to be careful because you can quickly steam seedlings to death when domes are combined with a heat mat.
If I haven't convinced you, don't worry! Many gardeners use them and there's a lot of options out there. A lot of seed starting kits already come with seedling domes. Plastic wrap is a good DIY humidity dome option. Just remove it when the sprouts get near the wrap. You can buy domes that fit standard trays.
Or, if you want to stick around to my next post, I'll go over a more durable dome that fits my stainless steel seed starting trays.
Because seedlings live a fairly pampered life indoors, with no wind or rain, they can suffer shock when transplanted outside. (You can even kill your plants like this, so this is no joke. Been there!) Preparing plants for this transplant is called hardening off, basically making them ready for the cruel hard world.
There are other ways to get your plants ready, but blowing a fan on them ahead of time is an easy shortcut.
Is this necessary? No.
Will your family think you're a nut? Yes.
Is it nice? Yes.
I would say, if you're a beginning gardener, don't add this extra step and supply to the mix to stress yourself out. If you're an intermediate gardener and you have a fan laying around your house, go for it. If you're advanced, your family already knows you're crazy.
Seeds are amazing little packages. Inside them, they have all the nutrients they need to create new life.
Experts do agree that after germination though, they could use some additional help from us in the form of fertilizer, preferably with an NPK value of 10-10-10 for synthetic or 4-3-3 for organic fertilizer. I'm a big fan of Down to Earth fertilizers, which are organic and OMRI-listed.
You can use a liquid fertilizer and mix it directly into your watering can for bottom watering. Or, you can also mix granular fertilizer into your soil mix before your make soil blocks or seed. My only recommendation is, if you're shopping for fertilizer, just to make sure to get one that doesn't smell too much since it will be indoors.
I'll be real, I usually forget to fertilize and my plants are fine. Maybe a little yellow, as you'd expect. So you don't NEED to do this. But, when I do remember to fertilize, the results are really great, so I'm really making an effort to remember this.
So that's it! To summarize, I'd say you absolutely need only 7 things: seeds, a plan, trays, soil mix, labels, a strong seeding light, and grow lights.
Things that are nice to have are: seed starting kits, seed packet organizer, pots, heat mats, a watering can, a shelf, a timer, humidity domes, a fan, and fertilizer.
Did I miss anything? Let us know your favorite seed starting supplies and tips down in the comments.
I hope this post helped you out! Remember to sign up for my newsletter for more gardening resources. Keep gardening like a boss and I'll see you guys soon.
Want more information on cheap seed starting trays? Feel free to contact us.
Seed trays are essential for starting seeds and cuttings. Seed trays are commoly lightweight plastic, biodegrable paper, or compressed peat trays divided into separate cells, like a muffin tin, for growing individual seedlings.
Seed tray cells are usually 2 to 3 inches deep and up to 3 inches square or round. Some seed tray cells can be as small as 1 inch deep and 1 inch in diameter. Seed trays vary in size from small six packs (approximatley 4 by 8 inches) to as large as 12 by 20 inches or larger. Some seed trays come with a flat tray underneath to catch excess water. Some come with a plastic top or dome to create a small greenhouse.
There are many options available in the market. It can be overwhelming to know which one is the best fit for your needs. Here is a guide to seed trays and how they are used.
Biodegradable seed starting tray
Types of seed starting trays
Choose a seed tray that suits your specific needs. There are various types available, including individual cell trays, multi-cell trays, and open flat trays. Individual cell trays are ideal for larger seeds or plants that require ample space, as each cell provides enough room for seedlings to develop. Multi-cell trays are perfect for smaller seeds or plants that can be closely spaced, as they provide multiple compartments in which to sow your seeds. Open flat trays, on the other hand, are versatile and can accommodate seeds of various sizes, allowing for greater flexibility.
Plastic sectioned starting tray
Lightweight plastic tray divided into separate cells usually 2 to 3 inches deep and up to 3 inches square or round. Plastic trays can be very thin and light or heavier. Some have flexible bottoms that allow rooted seedlings to be pushed out of the tray from the bottom.
Sectioned fiber seed tray
Compressed paper fiber or peat trays are similar in size and depth to plastic trays. Sometimes sold with plastic trays that they fit beneath the setioned tray to catch water that drips through. Some are designed especially to fit onto windowsills, called windowsill sets.
Open trays or flats
Open trays or flats do not have individual cells. Flats are often 6 to 12 inches wide and 12 to 24 inches long. They can be used for starting very small seeds that can be broadcast or scattered across the the starting medium surface. Seedlings grown in open trays or flats often need thinning so that individual seedlings can grow on without competion from neighboring seedlings.
Self-watering seed trays
Self-watering seed trays have drainage holes and capillary matting. An outer tray without drainable holes fit into the bottom of the starting tray. The seedlings are watered indirectly – water put in the bottom tray is pulled up into the starting tray.
Seed trays with plastic covers
Seed trays with clear plastic covers provide extra climate control at the germianitng stage. The plastic cover or dome fits over the top of the starting tray. The plainest version of this starting tray looks something like a casserole dish. Some have high domes that allow seedlings to grow to 3 or 4 inches tall. Seed trays with clear plastic lids act as mini-greenhouses, creating a moist and warm environment ideal for germination. Others have adjustable vents that allow for temperature and humidity control. These features can be particularly useful if you are starting seeds in colder climates and want to extend your growing season.
Plastic seed starting tray with tomato seedlings
Seed tray use tips
Sow two or three seeds in each compartment to compensate for poor germination. If more than one seed germinates, thin out the weakest, leaving only one seedling in each section.
All seedlings in each tray should have the same watering requirements and planting times for ease of maintenance.
The growing medium should be premoistened before sowing seed.
Fiber or peat trays can be cut apart and completely buried in the garden (where the material will disintegrate nautrally). Trim off any part of the pot above soil line.
Seed tray material
Seed trays are commonly made of plastic or biodegradable materials. Plastic trays are durable, lightweight, and easy to clean, making them a popular choice among gardeners. Biodegradable trays, made from materials such as peat or coconut fiber, are environmentally friendly options that can be directly planted into the ground, preventing the disturbance of young plants during transplantation.
Plastic trays
Plastic trays are the most common choice due to their durability and affordability. They are lightweight, easy to clean, and provide good insulation for young plants. Plastic trays come in various sizes and designs. Plastic trays have excellent moisture retention, helping to create optimal conditions for seed germination. However, it is important to ensure that the plastic used is BPA-free to avoid any potential harm to your plants.
Some plastic trays are made from recycled materials such as recycled plastic or compostable materials; these are an excellent choice for reducing waste. Recycled trays often have the same benefits as traditional plastic trays, including durability and lightweight construction.
Biodegradable fiber or paper trays
Biodegradable trays made from materials like recycled paper, peat, or coconut coir are an eco-friendly alternative. These trays can be directly planted into the ground, reducing transplant shock and saving the gardener’s time and effort. Peat and fiber trays have excellent water retention capabilities and promote healthy root growth. Once seedlings are ready to be transplanted, the trays can be cut apart and the indivdual sectios can be planted directly into the ground. Peat and fiber trays can be more expensive than their plastic counterparts.
Seed tray with bottom tray to catch water
Seed tray depth
Seed trays can have cells of varying depth. Some types of plants have deeper root systems and require more space to grow, while others have shallower roots and can thrive in smaller cells. Make sure to choose a seed tray with the appropriate depth for the plants you are planning to grow.
Seed tray drainage
Seed trays must have drainage holes. Good drainage is essential for preventing waterlogging and ensuring healthy root development. Look for trays with good drainage capabilities to provide optimal conditions for your plants. Seed trays commonly have bottom drainage which allows excess water to easily escape. If water does not water easily drain away, seedling roots can become waterlogged and develop root rot. Bottom drainage allows for air circulation and prevents the build-up of harmful mold and fungus. Some seed trays feature small holes on the sides of the tray. This can provide a more controlled water supply to seeds.
Open tray or flat; seed is broadcast across the growing medium
Seed tray buying tips
Seed trays come in various sizes, ranging from compact ones with just a few cells to larger ones with dozens or even hundreds of cells. Consider the space you have available and the number of plants you intend to sow before making your decision. If you have limited space or are sowing a small number of seeds, a smaller seed tray would be appropriate. On the other hand, if you have a larger garden or are planning to sow a significant number of seeds, opting for a larger tray will give your seeds more room to grow and develop.
Ensure that the seed tray has adequate drainage holes. Proper drainage is crucial for seedling health as it prevents waterlogging, which can lead to root rot and other problems. Look for trays with sufficient drainage holes to ensure that excess water can easily escape, providing your seeds with the perfect balance of moisture.
Sectioned trays are more expensive than the single flat often used by many professional growers. Sectioned tays are worth the extra money because they prevent root competition among seedlings as roots can devleop only within confines of each section — thus reducing transplant shock.
Plastic trays can be reused year after year. Look for stiff, solid fabrication that will not easily break.
Self-watering trays are easy to use and worth the extra cost if you find watering on a regular schedule difficult.
Consider factors such as durability, moisture retention, and eco-friendliness when making your decision. By selecting the right seed tray material, you can create the ideal environment for your plants to thrive and ensure a successful gardening experience.
Seed trays we like
MIXC 10 Packs Seed Starter with Humidity Dome (120 Cells Total Tray) Growing Starting Seed Starting Trays Plant Starter and Base Mini Greenhouse Germination Kit. About $17.
RooTrimmer 3.5 inch Square Nursery Pots 60pcs, Sturdy seed starter trays 5 Pcs, Seeds Starting Germination, Small Planter Nursery Propagation 5 Sets. About $29.
9GreenBox – Seedling Starter Trays, 144 Cells: (24 Trays; 6-Cells Per Tray), Plus 5 Plant Labels. About $8.
RooTrimmer 54 Cell Seed Starter Trays – Sturdy and Deep Design, Perfect for Hydroponic Planting and Seed Starting (5-Pack). About $30.
The company is the world’s best Seedling Trays Price supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.
Mr. Pen- Plastic Growing Trays, 5 Pack, Black, Seed Tray, Propagation Tray, Plant Trays for Seedlings, Planting Trays, Microgreens Trays, Seedling Starter Trays. About $15.
MIXC Seedling Trays Seed Starter Tray, 5-Pack Mini Propagator Plant Grow Kit Greenhouse with Humidity Vented Domes and Base for Seeds’ Starting (40 Cells Per Tray, Total 200 Cells). About $17.
Seed Starter Tray, 24 Cells Indoor Seed Starter Kit, Flexible Silicone Designed Seedling Starter Trays, Germination Tray with Humidity Dome & Lids(4in Height), Reusable & Dishwasher Safe, BPA-Free. About $17.
Jucoan 40 Pack Peat Pots Seed Starter Trays, 480 Cells Germination Seedling Pots, Organic Biodegradable Plant Germination Tray. About $20.
GROWNEER 120 Cells Peat Pots Seed Starter Trays, 12 Packs Biodegradable Seedling Pots Germination Trays. About $12.
As a gardener, there is no end to what you could spend your money on. Take seed starting – what do you really need? Are those peat pellet kits really worth it? Can you start your seeds in yogurt tubs, or is that somehow not….correct?
Here’s my opinionated opinion on what should get your money and what shouldn’t.
It should go without saying, but I’ll pound the point home anyway: better seeds make better seedlings. Good seeds needn’t be super expensive. In general, OP seeds cost less than hybrid seeds. I feel hybrid seeds offer an advantage for cauliflower and brussels sprouts, and in cool areas like the NW if you aren’t seed saving, you might opt for hybrids for the warm season crops like eggplant, peppers, and melons (because we need all the help we can get for those crops).
Otherwise, less expensive open pollinated varieties are a fine choice. For more info, or if seed selection is overwhelming you, check out my post on How to Pick Your Vegetable Seeds Without Going Crazy.
Start your early seeds on the kitchen windowsill? Maybe in the Southwest.
Here in Rainyside, grow lights will give a far superior result. See last year’s comparison between window-grown starts and grow-light starts for proof. We have T12 florescent grow lights. We upgraded to these T5 fluorescent grow grow lights in – they are a dream – and are currently () trialing LED lighting options to see if it finally makes financial sense for the home gardener to switch to LED grow lights .
Make your grow light decision based on what it right for you based on your space available, energy cost, and budget. Don’t forget that with lights there is an upfront budget and an operating budget, and in the long run it pays to get a more energy efficient setup.
If you are going to put lights on your seedlings, you want a little robot who will turn your lights on at 5 am and off at 10 pm without you having to remember. Make sure you get one with a grounded plug. You’re going to be spraying water around this thing, after all.
I love solid, heavy-duty plastic propagation trays. You do NOT need the inserts. Although the inserts are space efficient and I use them, almost any container can be modified into a seed starting container. Anything that can hold a bit of soil and a seed can be used as a pot, including newspaper, toilet paper tubes or old yogurt containers.
However, it is good practice to bottom water your seedlings, and I love the heavy duty solid trays for this. If you can find a bunch of old metal sheetpans with a sturdy, high lip all the way around, or have some plastic shoeboxes that will hold water, those all work well too. If you buy propagation trays, try to get them locally so you can inspect their sturdiness. It is worth paying a bit more for a really heavy duty tray that will last.
Fish Emulsion. Here, let me say it again: fish emulsion. This is the perfect liquid fertilizer for seed starting. I dilute to ¼ the recommended strength and bottom water seedlings with it every week or two, depending on the crop.
Once your crops are up and growing outside, if something looks like it needs help – dilute fish emulsion. If your spinach looks at you funny – dilute fish emulsion. Cilantro going to seed to fast? Dilute fish emulsion. Basically, fish emulsion is like lemon ginger tea: it might not be the exact perfect cure, but it won’t hurt, and it’ll probably make your plant feel better. When in doubt, dilute fish emulsion.
If you are starting your seeds in an out of the way area, I highly encourage you to introduce some constant airflow around your seedlings.
This does two very important things. First, it reduces the possibility of soil fungus and whitefly buildup around your seedlings. Second, constant light air movement forces seedlings to grow stronger and tougher, and put a bit more energy into growing a nice sturdy stem. It is important that your seedling’s first exposure to airflow isn’t a 45 mph wind gust just after your transplant them outside. I have a little soft bladed fan like this:
Not essential, but a seed heating mat is very nice to have if you are starting tomatoes, peppers or (especially) eggplant from seed in the Maritime Northwest. Obviously not needed if you live someplace where you put pepper seeds in the ground and they grow.
Warmer soil means a faster germination and less chance your heat-lovin’ seeds are going to up and rot on you. I’ve had a pair of Hydrofarm seed mats like the one below for seven years, I use them every year, treat them like crap, and they’ve both held up very well. They are the same size as the propagation trays, so everything plays together really well on my seed-rack.
Ok, remember this is just my opinionated opinion. If you disagree, please feel free to (respectfully) make your case in the comments. Maybe you’ll change my mind!
Particularly the overpriced kind sold the small little bags from high-end nurseries in upscale malls. Grrrrr…..that kind of thing makes me cray-zay. If you only want to start five or six transplants, honestly you are probably better off just buying well-grown transplants from a good nursery. Once you get to the point where you start a lot of seeds indoors, you have to look at ways to make your seed starting medium more economical.
In the past I’ve used massive bags of standard Miracle Gro, Black Gold or E.B. Stone soilless potting mix and I’ve had great results with all of them. If your ethics allow it, the Miracle Gro is fine for seed starting. These days, my preferred potting soil is this DIY homemade mix.
My problem with dedicated seed starting mix in general is that I think it is too light and I don’t like the total lack of background nutrition. My goal isn’t just to get the maximum possible germination and growth from my seeds, as it might be for a commercial grower. My goal is to grow seedlings that will do well outside without forcing me to spend every waking minute babying my transplants.
A slightly heavier mix that holds more moisture, a slightly larger pot, and added background nutrition in the mix means my transplants can go a day or several without me fussing over them. I do still believe that a sterile mix is a probably a good idea for seed starting, though I have not seen any problems when using not-sterile vermicompost.
LED grow lamps are generally very expensive and are probably overkill for getting a little broccoli up and going. Both these types of lamps are mostly designed for professionals who want to take a crop through it’s full life cycle indoors or in a greenhouse with precise levels of supplemental light – a much more demanding lighting task than growing stocky, well-rooted transplants for outdoor growing.
There is one cash crop whose value probably justifies the expense of these kind of lights (::cough::pot::cough::) and I don’t grow it. Homebrew Husband and I are closely watching LED grow light technology. We think in a couple years the startup cost of this technology and the diversity of options for hobbyist set-ups will be where it needs to be for us to make the leap from our old, crappy fluorescents.
Update: LED lights have come down in price radically since I first published this post, and have always held the advantage in long-term operating costs. We are trialing value-priced LED lighting this spring to see if the performance and durability matches our T5 fluorescents. If it is, my recommendation will be for gardeners to start their seedlings under LED grow lights.
I hate, hate hate those pop-up, peat/coir, seed-starting pucks. Some people love them. If you look on the Amazon reviews, apparently most people love them. Count me as not among those people.
First, they are typically too small for all but the smallest transplants (like lettuce or chard). The mesh that surrounds the peat may, in some theoretical sense, be biodegradable but it certainly doesn’t break down quickly – I was finding those mesh liners in my raised beds for three years after I swore off the peat pellets forever.
What peat pellets are really good for is air pruning roots to encourage a well-branched root system at transplant. Soil blocks give you the same advantage without the mesh, and are less expensive in the long run. Or, recycle old newspapers into really biodegradable seed starting pots.
Propagation domes are the clear plastic lids you put over your seed propagation tray to keep humidity and moisture in and stop the potting mix from drying out while seeds are germinating. You know what works just as well? A plastic bag or a sheet of plastic wrap.
I have used propagation domes, and I find them flimsy unitaskers, for the most part. As soon as seeds start popping up, take any covering off your seeds or risk mold and damping-off disease in your seedlings. Exception: if you are rooting cuttings, prop lids might be great for you.
What do you think – what are your favorite seed starting tools and toys? What’s worth it to you, and what isn’t?
I've been gardening and writing about gardening for more than 20 years, yet I find I'm always learning new things about the plants, insects and other critters that call my backyard home. That's the great thing about gardening — it's never boring! I've worked as a landscaper, on an organic farm, as a research technician in a plant pathology lab and ran a small cut-flower business, all of which inform my garden writing. Someone once asked me when I'll be finished with my gardens, to which I replied, "Never!" For me, gardening is a process, not a goal.
Whether you're new to starting seeds or looking for fresh ways to grow your healthiest plants, we have supplies and systems that ensure success. With so many choices, how do you decide which is right for you? We're here to help.
Although you can start seeds in just about any container as long as it has holes for drainage, as with any task you're more likely to have better success using equipment designed specially for that purpose. And if you're new to seed-starting or introducing a friend to growing from seed, why not start with the systems that ensure success? Here are some considerations to help you choose.
Reusable pots and trays are made from durable materials that can be washed, sanitized, and reused year after year.
Plantable pots are made from biodegradable materials so the seedlings can be set in the garden pot and all, eliminating root disturbance. Cleanup is easy, and there are no bulky pots to store.
DIY pots includes those made from recycled materials, such as newspapers, as well as pot-free soil blocks.
Deep-root pots encourage more extensive and robust root systems that help plants make an easy transition to the garden.
Self-watering systems deliver water to seedlings as they need it, reducing the risk of over- or under-watering.
High volume systems allow you to grow a garden's worth of seedlings in a compact space.
This innovative self-watering seed starting system is 30% deeper than our Deep Root, growing full-size, garden-ready seedlings that are hardier and healthier. Optional add-ons, sold separately, include: additional Seed Starting Trays and Humidity Domes for fast germination.
Self-watering system extends time between waterings
Durable, reusable & dishwasher-safe
Large pop-out hole in each cell makes transplanting easier
Perfect for:
peppers, zinnias, and other seedlings that would benefit from a BIG starting space; no need to transplant up in a larger pot!
All the benefits of our original XL Seed Starting Kit, but made with hemp fiber and 25% less plastic! Grow extra-large seedlings with an extra-green self-watering seed starting system. Additional Seed Starting Trays and Humidity Domes for fast germination, sold separately.
Made with hemp fiber and 25% less plastic — each kit keeps nearly 3 pounds of CO2 out of the atmosphere!
Self-watering system extends time between waterings
Durable, reusable & dishwasher-safe
Large pop-out hole in each cell makes transplanting easier
Perfect for:
peppers, zinnias, and other seedlings that would benefit from a BIG starting space; no need to transplant up in a larger pot!
This heavy-duty, recycled-plastic seed starter includes an efficient and effective self-watering system that solves the challenges of over- or under-watering. Simply fill the reservoir and plants get the water they need, when they need it.
Capilary mat delivers water from reservoir to soil
Dishwasher-safe for easy sterilization between uses
Clear cover holds in heat and moisture to maximize seed germination
Perfect for:
the brand new gardener. The included humidity dome helps seeds germinate and a bottom-up watering design will support veggies, herbs, and flowers
Expandable paper honeycomb creates a whopping 50 cells. When you're ready to transplant into the garden, pots tear apart so you can plant them, paper liner and all.
Plantable pots are biodegradable and minimize transplant shock
Ideal for high-volume growing
Reusable perforated tray; paper cell refills available
Perfect for:
cucumbers, sunflowers, and other seedlings that don’t like being handled due to transplant shock
The ultimate in upcycling! In seconds you can transform strips of newspaper into seed-starting pots, ready to nestle into a waterproof tray and fill with soil mix. Easy, fun, and economical for high-volume growing.
Biodegradable pots minimize transplant shock
Make as few or as many as you need
Eliminates the clutter and storage hassles of plastic pots
Perfect for:
radishes and other quick-growing seeds that don't need to spend weeks in a seedling-sized pot
These fully biodegradable pots ease transplanting woes and work, allowing you to plant directly into the garden — pot and all. The wood fibers immediately begin to biodegrade, ensuring adequate moisture and aeration as well as restriction-free root growth.
Plantable pots transplant directly into the soil
Heavy-duty plastic tray is reusable year after year
Suitable for organic gardening! No binders or glue in the pots.
Additional biodegradable seed trays sold separately
Perfect for:
cucumbers, nasturtium, squash, and other seedlings that grow quickly and do not appreciate having their roots disturbed
An ingenious farmer makes these transplanting pots from odor-free, 100% composted cow manure. As your seedlings grow, the pots gradually degrade, releasing organic nutrients. Plant pot and all in the garden for healthy root growth without transplant shock.
Biodegradable pots transplant directly into garden
Roots grow through and take natural fertilizer with them
Eliminates transplant shock
Perfect for:
heavy feeders” like tomatoes, squash, and broccoli will appreciate the slow release of nutrients as this manure-based pot degrades.
Never run out of starter pots again! This clever device presses moistened soil into compact blocks with a small divot in the top, ready for dropping in a seed. Roots grow freely, get oxygenated, and grow more robustly as a result.
Make blocks as you need them — no need to store plastic pots
An easy, no-waste, DIY solution that's perfect for high-volume growing
Minimizes transplant shock.
Perfect for:
peppers, tomatoes, and other seeds that would benefit from a BIG starting space; no need to plant up in a larger pot!
An attractive seed starter worthy of display on a tabletop or under lights. The leakproof tray holds 24 individual, tapered cells, so you can bring the ready-to-transplant seedlings to the garden without disturbing the other plants.
Longlasting and resuable, year after year
Chic galvanized metal complements home decor
Seedlings remove easily with little root disturbance
Perfect for:
starting a variety of seed types; separate pots make it easy to transplant individual plants one at a time
This self-watering system features deep growing cells that result in more root mass — the secret to vigorous seedlings that thrive when transplanted. The smart design is inspired by the systems used in European horticulture laboratories.
Heavy-duty system can be reused for many years
Self-watering system ensures proper hydration
Perfect for:
peppers, tomatoes, zinnias, and other seeds that would benefit from a BIG starting space with plenty of root space
Pop-Out Pots are the secret to seedlings that are primed for robust growth in the garden. Transplant young seedlings from seed starting trays into these self-watering pots. When it’s time to set plants in the garden, simply lift the fabric strips to “pop out” plants without disturbing roots.
Self-watering system ensures perfect hydration
Easy-lift line minimizes root disturbance
Compact design fits on a windowsill
Perfect for:
cucumbers, squash, sunflowers, and other seedlings that don’t like being handled due to transplant shock
We designed this system for season after season of successful seed-starting. The leak proof tray holds 24 individual cells, so you can bring the ready-to-transplant seedlings to the garden without disturbing seedlings that aren't quite big enough.
Enjoy seed-starting success year after year
Tapered pots let you easily remove seedlings
Wire grid with moisture-retaining mat keeps seedlings hydrated
Perfect for:
starting a variety of seed types; separate pots make it easy to transplant individual plants one at a time
These sustainable silicone seed-starting trays are durable, reusable, and easy on tender young roots. Because they're so flexible, you can pop seedlings out with ease — no tugging or tearing required.
Pop seedlings out quickly and easily
BPA-free, food-grade silicone
Dishwasher safe
Perfect for:
starting seeds with kids (crush-proof!) or gardening in colder climates (frost-proof!)
These silicone trays make seed-starting so much more fun! Like other systems they have base drainage so that soil doesn't stay soggy and rot your seeds. Unlike plastic trays, they won't snap, crack, or break from use. Plus, they're flexible and twistable — so when seedlings are big enough to go out to the garden, it's super easy to pop them out. Use 5 to a base tray and you have 50 plants in a 10" x 20" space!
Durable and flexible
Reduces risk of transplant shock
5 trays fit perfectly in our Heavy Duty planting tray
Perfect for:
starting A LOT of seeds with kids (crush-proof!) or gardening in colder climates (frost-proof!)
You'll love this reusable, no-mess seed-starting system. Just hydrate the 50 individual coir discs in their cells, add your seeds, and wait for the little shoots to appear! Water as needed until they're ready to transplant into the garden, coir and all! Replacement coir discs available separately.
No soil to mix or scoop
Start a lot of seeds in a small space
Perfect for:
s
tarting a whole garden; 50 pre-fi
lled cells make it easy to start many, many seeds at once
Whether you’re a seed starting beginner or a long-time grower experiencing new challenges, you’re not alone! We’ve collected some of the most common questions we get asked about seed starting with helpful answers and troubleshooting advice.
Finding the right seed starting system is only half the battle! Explore our deep dive on seed-starting to learn the ins and outs of growing flowers and veggies from seed, so you can graduate from novice sower to master grower!