Upgrading your home’s water heating system is a significant decision, especially when considering energy efficiency.
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If you're contemplating a switch from a traditional water heater to a heat pump water heater, you're on the right track toward a more sustainable home.
Here's what you need to know before taking the plunge.
Heat pump water heaters are gaining popularity, particularly among homeowners focused on energy efficiency.
Unlike traditional natural gas tank water heaters, these units don’t rely on combustion, eliminating issues like backdrafting.
Backdrafting occurs when household systems like range hoods, dryers, and bath fans pull air out of the house, potentially causing harmful gases to flow back into the living area.
One of the primary advantages of heat pump water heaters is their superior energy efficiency.
Traditional atmospheric tank water heaters typically have an energy factor (EF) of around 0.63, meaning 37% of the energy is wasted.
In contrast, heat pump water heaters boast an EF of 3, 4, or even 5.
This remarkable efficiency is achieved because they capture heat from the surrounding air and transfer it into the water, much like how an air conditioner works.
As a result, they use significantly less energy compared to traditional water heaters.
In addition to heating water, heat pump water heaters also dehumidify the surrounding air.
This feature is particularly beneficial in basements, where excess moisture can lead to mold and mildew growth.
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By dehumidifying the air, these units help keep your basement dry and safe.
While heat pump water heaters offer numerous benefits, they do produce some noise, similar to an air conditioner.
Most users find the noise tolerable, but it's worth considering if the unit will be installed in a location where noise could be a concern, such as near living areas or bedrooms.
Heat pump water heaters work by extracting heat from the surrounding air, which can cause the area around the unit to become slightly cooler.
This temperature change is usually minimal but can be noticeable in smaller spaces.
Recovery time, or the time it takes to reheat a full tank of water, is another factor to consider.
While a standard 220-volt, 40-50 gallon heat pump water heater may have a recovery time similar to traditional models, larger units or those running on a 110-volt circuit might take longer to recover.
For households with high hot water demand, it might be wise to opt for a slightly larger unit or ensure that your unit runs on a 220-volt circuit.
Installing a heat pump water heater often requires upgrading your home's electrical system.
These units typically need a 30-amp, 220-volt circuit, which may not exist near your current water heater's location.
This might necessitate hiring an electrician and, in some cases, upgrading your electrical panel, especially in older homes.
Heat pump water heaters are generally taller than traditional water heaters because the heat pump is mounted on top of the unit.
This height can pose challenges in basements with low ceilings.
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If I understand your question, you want to heat the hot water with an electric hot water heater using a generator to supply the power? That is rarely done as its big load on the generator ( watts typically).Yes, you understood correctly. Thank you for this breakdown. Our house is pretty old so I'm assuming it runs as you described. And it sounds like it would be possible to run one at a time to supply some hot water to the house if needed. I'm just trying to be prepared for this winter as we tend to get power outages that can last 4-5 days, and I have infants in the house. Hopefully we wont need to run hot water, and if water is needed just run the pump for a bit. But in the event we need hot water from a faucet I wanted to understand how to accomplish that and if it was possible. We have the Generac model, and it's labeled as W with max ac. watts at . Just learning to familiarize myself with all of this, so I believe it can handle the load from the hot water heater. Although I have read places that the generator may be running at about 80% of that capacity realistically - which may be an issue.
In most older homes, the well pump pumps up to a bladder type expansion tank somewhere in the house until it is up to pressure, than it turns off. The bladder in the expansion tank is now pressurized liek a ballon and pushes water out of the tank to whatever household use you want including hot water. The electric hot water tank is normally always full. Heat rises so the hottest water is on top of the tank. There is a cold water line that runs into the top of the tank but is usually internally piped to the bottom of the tank. If you open a faucet, the hot water from the top of the tank is pushed to your faucet outof the ot water heater via cold water from your well expansion tank. When the pressure on the discharge of the expansion tank drops below a low set point the water will stop flowing out the faucet (unless its below the water heater). Most hot water heaters have some storage volume so you could just alternate between running the pump until the tank is full and then switching on the water heater. If both are drawing power at the same time your generator will trip.
In newer homes there is most likely a pump driven by a variable speed drive in the well. It varies its speed to supply steady pressure in the house via a special pump control in the basement. There is usually a very small expansion tank on the cold water line the size of basektball for other reasons but with this type of setup the pump would need to be powered whenever water is being used in the house. Generally power electronics like variable speed drives do not like generator power unless its a somewhat more expensive inverter generator.